2023 Ray Jordan Wine Review

Where do you start with the wines from Larry Cherubino? The quality of the extensive range of wines that are part of the Cherubino stable is quite breathtaking. He sources from his own vineyards in Frankland River and from Margaret River. The Frankland River properties are some of the most exciting in the State with the introduction of new varieties and clones that are providing him and other winemakers with so many options. It is an extraordinary suite of wines both in depth and breadth that highlight vineyard and regional differences and styles. His winemaking is designed to gently coax the fruit from those exceptional vineyards into wines that are expressive and always supremely balanced.

 

If you ever need evidence of the extraordinary winemaking abilities of Larry Cherubino, this should do the trick. It comes from his Riversdale vineyard using three separate clones, 175, 472 and Waldron. It is a wonderful modern expression of WA shiraz.

 

An exotically captivating bouquet of cherry and violets says that something special awaits in this terrific shiraz from Cherubino’s Riversdale vineyard. There is power and there is stylishness here with the incredible fruit concentration and driving intensity a product of this excellent vineyard and vintage. Has a gravelly grainy mouth feel which is just so engaging.

 

Silky smooth and elegant cabernet from the special Block 6 within the Riversdale vineyard. There is an ethereal aroma here of violet and red fruit with a cedary blackcurrant overlay. Once you reach the palate you are in a heady zone. Refined and graceful lines based on fine chalky tannins and a liberal well-managed use of oak carry the fruit with ease to a sustained long finish.

 

Highly perfumed Margaret River cabernet that provides a point of difference to the excellent ‘19. This delivers a velvety smooth palate deep with rich and opulent fruit flavour from this highly concentrated vintage. It is quite effortless as it takes you through the mid-palate and into a stunning long finish. The tannin and oak work on the palate is superb. High class.

 

You’ve gotta love this baby. It’s from an established vineyard in Pemberton. Exotic aromas of      violets and strawberries. The palate has tremendous depth and persistence with the use of oak and tannin management superb. The 1000-litre foudres have ensured the oak and fruit integration is harmonious and complete.

 

This is a more restrained version of this wine, certainly when compared to the concentration and deep power of the ’20. But it remains an excellent wine of refinement and elegance. The fruit and oak balance is well judged, sitting harmoniously as one on a palate this both long and precise.

 

This is made from two different clones from the Riversdale vineyard in Frankland River. Rich dark fruit on the nose showing a hint of ironstone and graphite working through the plush chocolatey blackcurrant fruit. Perfectly structured with a firm thread of chalky tannins and well-managed oak. A high class cabernet.

 

This wonderful shiraz with its super radiant colour comes from the Riversdale vineyard using three emerging clones 174, 470 and Waldron. It’s a wonderful illustration of how clones can make such a difference. This is an elegantly structured wine of sublime palate feel. It’s deep in colour but glows with bright energy. Grainy chalky and slightly ironstone palate contributions make for a brilliant wine.

 

Okay, so this is made from the Gingin clone sourced from the Willows vineyard in the heart of Margaret River. Has a lift of pear and grapefruit on the nose with a subtle hint of toasty oak. It’s pristine and quite pure on the palate with a crunchy acidity. Has a nice precise shape in the mouth.

 

There is a brightness and purity in this Porongurup pinot that is different from the more gamey model from Pemberton. It like its shape and linear structure with the fine chalky acidity and  gentle foudre-induced oak sitting comfortably in the background. Energy and drive in this medium-bodied palate.

 

I’ve only seen a handful of examples of this Spanish and Portuguese variety in Australia but already I’m starting to like it. Rich dark fruits with lashings of plummy dark cherry and supported by supple tannins. It delivers pure drinking indulgence with its smooth plush palate. Yummo

 

The steely tension within the tightly held palate is immediately evident. This area near Mount Barker has become a great riesling zone.  The wines are delicate yet with persistence.  Lime citrus and slightly saline characters emerge. The palate is light but with a crunchy intensity.

 

Shows the engaging perfumes of shiraz from the Justin vineyard. Perfumed plum and dark cherry with a subtle raspberry note. The palate is silky smooth with the fine tannins a feature. This is heady stuff. It’s pure and vibrant with great energy driving to a sustained finish. Love it.

 

2021 Uovo Frankland River Grenache - Runner up, Best Grenache