Antonio Gallani Vinous - Angus Hughson

Larry Cherubino shows tremendous consistency over his various ranges, which straddle Great Southern, Pemberton and Margaret River. These wines are well-priced and well-made. While value has long been Larry's strongest suit, recent vintages of his top wines show Cherubino can also mix it with the best from Frankland River and Margaret River.

 

This fabulous 2022 Chardonnay Black Label Pemberton is absolutely bursting with vibrant fruit          aromas, with a strong flinty/reductive edge that sits comfortably within the wine. Waves of melon and nectarine are encased in a seductive oak frame. The 2022 is coiled and tightly wound, with more citrus flavours. It is a lovely mix of power and subtlety before unfurling further over a long, finely-tuned finish. This 2022 is exceptional and will get better.

 

There is exceptional intensity and fruit precision to be found in the 2023 Riesling Frankland River, which jumps out of the gate with classic lime tones and faint quartz and spice. Beautifully controlled and composed with citrus intensity maintained and lifted by touches of dried flowers, quartz and       fennel seed spice delivered over an extremely long finish. This is a benchmark Frankland River  Riesling.

 

The deeply impressive 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon Budworth is brooding, muscular and built for the long term. Classic graphite and gravel aromas are richly underpinned by a dense core of blackberry and mulberry notes with a finely interwoven bed of French oak. With beautiful composure and depth, rivers of tannin hold the fruit tight and firm over a long drying finish. This is a classically proportioned Cabernet and built for the long haul.

 

From an iconic vineyard originally planted in 1956 and then replanted in the 1970s, the young and brooding 2020 Shiraz The Yard Justin delivers a compact core of smoky blackberry, hot rocks and roasted spices framed by a firm base of French oak. Rustic and a little wild, the palate echoes smoky, tarry elements supported by a rigid structure. The 2020 is young, vivacious and impressive.

 

The intriguing 2022 single vineyard Shiraz The Yard Acacia teases with aromas of dark earth and       violets framed by finely balanced French oak. While earthy/dark berry flavours are still wound up tight, the overall energy and definition, topped with a core of fine tannins, make this an attractive      aging proposition.

 

This lighter 2021 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc is effortless with its blackcurrant, dried sage and meat stock aromas beautifully integrated with fine French oak. The 2021 is streamlined and pure with fleshy layers of violet and graphite, retaining impressive      composure through to a long, refined finish accented by chalky tannins.

 

This almost Chablis-inspired 2022 Chardonnay Pemberton is bright and acid-driven with precise aromas of citrus and chalk that are pristine and pure. The angular texture fits well, and its grapefruit flavours are fine. The 2022 is focused and pretty with solid length.

 

This well-balanced and delicately styled 2023 Riesling Great Southern offers up wafts of lime, talcum powder and crushed rocks, the fruit pristine and pure. Zippy acidity drives an upfront burst of flavour before settling into a gently flavoured package. The 2023 is approachable with good drinkability before fading a touch on the finish.

 

This charming 2021 blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc is reserved with layers of graphite, florals and crushed leaves underpinned by a core of sweet blackcurrant fruit. Delicately weighted with strong cedary tones, the overall complexity is admirable before the wine just tightens up a bit on the finish thanks to sinewy tannins. A couple of years in bottle should iron out the bumps.

 

This 2022 Riesling Uovo, fermented and aged in a clay cement egg, delivers enchanting aromas of poached pear with earthy tones and well-integrated leesy complexity. Chalky acidity is quite well balanced with an initial textural feel, tightening to an angular finish.

 

The young vine 2022 Mencia Laissez Faire is a cause for optimism for this variety with good typicity. It's bursting with sour cherry and dried herbs with hints of tar aromas to start, backed by a solid mix of acid tension with grainy tannins. It's certainly approachable, but it certainly shows good overall balance and integrity.