Deep Dive: Australia’s Best Nebbiolo - Young Gun of Wine
Five years after our inaugural Deep Dive into Nebbiolo, it’s an apt time to again cast our eyes across the landscape.
Our panel: Chris Ryan, Senior Wine Buyer, Trader House Group; Christina Kaigg-Hoxley, Wine Development Manager, 67 Pall Mall; Dr Ray Nadeson, Winemaker and Owner, Lethbridge; Madeleine Marson, Winemaker, Vinea Marson; Ed Merrison, wine writer and educator, Vininspo!; Katarina Lange, Sommelier, Botanical Hotel; Phoebe Grant, Sommelier, Cutler & Co; Paula Pipan, Winemaker and Owner, Pipan Steel; Peter Saturno, Director, Longview Vineyard.
With eight of the finest palates in attendance, we gathered every example we could find in Australia and set our expert panel the tasks of finding the wines that compelled the most. All wines were tasted blind, and each panellist named their top six wines.
We simply wanted each panellist to select the six wines that engaged them the most, and on any level. This was not an exercise in technical perfection, but rather engagement and interest, though naturally those spheres may very well intersect. The other important caveat was that the wines needn’t subscribe to a classic view on what nebbiolo ‘should’ look like based on Italian benchmarks. Again, the comparison is inevitable, but we weren’t looking for caricature; we were looking for wines that made sense of nebbiolo in any given Australian macroclimate, with their own unique soil profiles.
Interestingly, though the panel shared some of their top six choices, they almost all nominated a different wine for their most compelling. And a majority of the wines not making any of the panel’s shortlist were spoken of favourably. So, based on the parameters laid down, there are some notable exclusions from this list. It highlights that dedicated professionals with highly educated palates reach different conclusions, and eminently supportable ones at that. That’s wine.
The Top Nebbiolos in Australia
2022 Cherubino Frankland River Nebbiolo
Nadeson and Ryan included this in their top-six lists. “This nebbiolo displays a richer and more opulent profile to most of the wines in the tasting,” commented Nadeson, “It starts with captivating aromas of ripe black cherry, plum compote, and degrees of sweet tobacco. Layers of flavour unfold on the palate, revealing luscious dark berries, dried figs, and hints of cocoa, all of which are seamlessly intertwined with a good dose of forest floor. The tannins provide a plush texture, while relatively high acidity lends balance and structure. A superb expression of nebbiolo showcasing richness and complexity with a refined elegance.” Ryan: “In contrast to some of the prettier expressions, this wine introduces some savoury aromas on the nose: porcini, truffle, and cured meats complement the ripe red cherry fruit. This autumnal feeling to the aromatics suggest some positive development and shows great varietal character. The palate leads with riper red and some dark fruits consistent with an Australian expression but is supported by savoury nebbiolo tannins. More mouthfilling than many in the tasting and a style that would be best enjoyed along wood roasted meats.”
