Exclusive Report: Matthew Jukes’ in-depth analysis of Western Australia

 

“It is incumbent on the wineries in this unique part of the world to tell their story and pour their wine…” And that is exactly what Matthew Jukes is doing on their behalf in this fascinating, must read examination of what is happening across Western Australia. 

 

I have just returned from one of my life’s most fascinating and comprehensive Australian tours. In just seven days, I managed to bring myself bang up to date with West Australia’s incredible gastronomic scene while tasting countless world-class wines and meeting many of the heroes of Aussie wine.

 

The collaborative efforts of Georgia Moore (communications tornado and mind behind the uniquely compelling and internationally relevant WA Good Food Guide & Wine Awards), Liz Mencel (program manager of WA Wines to the World; the state’s export growth program coordinated by Wines of Western Australia), Mark Forrest (Great Southern Wine Producers’ Association), Amanda Whiteland (Margaret River Wine Association), as well as all of the wineries, restaurants and hospitality experts involved, meant that this was as slick, top quality and fascinating as any wine week I have ever had the pleasure of attending. 

 

It is worth noting that winemakers Larry Cherubino and Matt Swinney, who personally organised two of the finest masterclasses I have ever had the pleasure of working on, set the standard for this week of phenomenal events. In addition, I had the pleasure of sharing the stage with wine writer Mike Bennie and Erin Larkin, two wine scribes whom I greatly admire and see far too rarely, as well as joining Nick Ryan on various co-hosting duties which invariably turned out to be as much bombastic theatre and far-fetched opinion as they did incisive wine chatter.

 

I met a couple of new faces, including head sommelier and buyer for the Kails Hospitality Group, Nina Throsby, who was a joy to chat to, Emma Farrelly (director of wine & beverages at State Buildings, who is always worth listening to for the most cutting edge assessments of Aussie wine, and also Cassandra Charlick, wine, travel and food writer whose opinions and palate brought another welcome dimension and fresh set of taste buds to all of our discussions. 

 

Against this background of wonderful people, amazingly organised events and perfectly prepared food, the wines stood their finest chance of showing at their best.

 

Here is a list of my standout West Australian wines of the week from each event on my itinerary.

 

 

Host Larry Cherubino invited nine of the top Chardonnay producers in the region for an open debate on the virtues of single vineyard Chardonnays in Margaret River. Nick Ryan, Cassandra Charlick, and I took the 50-strong guests through the wines accompanied by a fabulous lunch cooked by award-winning chef Seth James.

 

Here are my brief thoughts on the wines.

 

In conclusion, it was not surprising that the room was of one voice that Margaret River makes some of the greatest Chardonnays on earth and that single vineyard wines were a vital element in each winery’s offering. Every wine tasted entirely different from the next, and even those wines made 50m apart showed the kind of diversity we have come to expect from the feted wines of Burgundy. 

 

With a unique maritime setting accompanied by sunny days and cool nights, one gets the feeling that Margaret River might, hopefully, be a rare climate-change-proof wine region of the world, at least for the foreseeable future. Those wines utilising sensitive oak regimes and blessed with low natural alcohol levels and pristine fruit, accompanied by stunning acidity itself affording intrinsic age-worthiness, are already shining on a world stage. 

 

It is clear that the future is very bright for Margaret River Chardonnay. It is incumbent on the wineries in this unique part of the world to tell their story and pour their wine. I, for one, think that they cannot fail to attract consumers worldwide with their superbly well-made and entirely unforgettable wines.

 

60% new oak, Dijon clone, 12.9% alc.

This is an awesome example of a single vineyard wine showing charm, individuality and flair. If this skill level can be deployed at fair pricing overseas, the clamour for elite Margaret River wines with identity will reach epic levels before too long.

 

 

This was one of the most erudite and impressive wines of the entire week and it was opened on a whim one evening and not part of the formal program. There is no doubt that Pemberton’s potential is completely untapped, and on account of the brilliant sunshine and extraordinary natural acidity inherent in its wines, I cannot possibly imagine what the future holds.

 

If Larry’s Margaret River wines are impressive (which they truly are), then the wines from Pemberton, given time, might rival the greatest in the country. This is a vital wine for all die-hard Chardonnay enthusiasts to track down and taste.

 

Not wanting to withhold information about this wine, but equally excited to point interested parties to my recently released 100 Best Australian Wines Report 2023/24, this wine is a star in my report; garnering a new-perfect score. Suffice it to say, it was one of the highest-scoring wines of the entire week.

 

This wine confounds the senses with rose petals colliding with blueberry and plum notes and Italianate acidity. It is crisp and tangy, with Nebbiolo-like tannins that gently rake the palate, scattering yet more fruit drenched in mineral-soaked acidity. With a vast array of clones from Australia, France and New Zealand, there is considerable stamina and ripeness here, but no new oak is present. Instead, half sees in 7-year-old foudre and the other half lounges in terracotta. Whole bunches add electricity, and the entire experience is spectacular.

 

Frui Momento at Cherubino, Wilyabrup won the New Restaurant of the Year 2023 in the WA Good Food Guide, and it was easy to see why. While I was hosting an event during this lunch, and so was up and down throughout, the service, food, setting and wine list here are all exquisite. The attention to detail is sublime, partly due to its owner, winemaker Larry Cherubino, whose gastronomic experience is tip-top. This is a must-visit restaurant when you are next in Margaret River.