Ray Jordan reviews - September 2024
2023 Cherubino Pemberton chardonnay
Okay, I’ve tasted a few of these and I reckon this is the best. Great vintage, yes, but then the subtle winemaking has brought it to a new dimension. While bunch pressing and naturally fermented in new and used puncheons, which just takes the edge off the oak. The power of the Gingin clone is evident immediately. Lemon, quince and brioche notes work through while the palate is a thrilling journey to a very long finish. Great wine.
98 points
2023 Cherubino Margaret River chardonnay
Oh my. We have something here. Cherubino sources the fruit from vineyards in Karridale in the south and Wilyabrup in the north. So, you are getting that delicacy and fineness from Karridale and the power and richness from Wilyabrup. It makes for a thoroughly magnificent chardonnay that delivers a powerful statement presented with such finesse. The palate especially is so long and sustained. An outstanding wine from a great vintage.
98 points
2023 Cherubino Frankland River riesling
I suspected this might be a pretty good riesling from this region and this vintage. Well, I got it right. A pristine and pure riesling with notes of lemon zest and talcy bath salts. The palate is where this cracking wine really excels. It has a fine texture with tremendous intensity and vibrancy. Minerally, with spicy lemon characters. There’s a steely tense wet pebble edge through to the sustained finish.
96 points
2023 Cherubino Ovale Caves Road Margaret River chardonnay
The fruit for this wonderful chardonnay was sourced from vineyards at the Wallcliffe, Wilyabrup and Karridale along the most famous road in the region. After handpicking the fruit was pressed straight to new and used oak for fermentation and subsequent maturation for 10 months, So there is texture and palate richness here, but there is also a fine minerality and linear mouth feel that gives it focus and precision through a long palate. Slightly toasty subtle grapefruit and cashew characters with a chalky limestone acidity to finish. Damn fine.
96 points
2023 Cherubino Ovale Dijon chardonnay 2023
This cool wine is from Dijon clone fruit off the Wychwood Vineyard at Karridale. Needless to say, with that combination it is a more delicate chardonnay than those from the powerhouse Gingin clone. But this has intensity and tremendous drive through the palate. Light lemon curd and brioche with a citrussy pear character laced with a little light cashew. Love the crisp chalky acidity to finish.
96 points
2022 Cherubino Frankland River shiraz
A thoroughly beautiful and quite pretty shiraz from the Riversdale vineyard in Frankland with these special clones 174, 470 and Waldron, which were introduced a few years ago. It’s silky smooth and plush but there is structure in here with fine chalky tannin and little ironstone with persistent flavours that build relentlessly. A wine of tremendous luminosity and brightness.
96 points
2023 Uovo Frankland River grenache
Cherubino pushes boundaries with this marvellous grenache. It’s made in a clay cement ovoid tank which is a giant egg that creates a sort of vortex of continual movement. The outcome is stunning. There’s pristine purity and vibrancy here as the grenache elevates to new levels of seductiveness. You just keep going back for more. Terrific stuff.
96 points
2024 Cherubino Pemberton sauvignon blanc
I’m not sure how Cherubino has made a wine of this quality in such a hot year. But here you go. A sauvignon blanc from Pemberton which was naturally fermented and matured in French oak for eight months. Nutty stone fruit aromas and then a palate where the balance between the oak and fruit nails it. Textured and rich with slightly lemony nutty characters focussed to a long finish.
95 points
2023 Cherubino Ovale Gingin chardonnay
The power and concentrated intensity of the Gingin clone from the Willows Vineyard is evident immediately on the nose. A deep wave of butterscotch, roast cashews and lemon curd emerge with intensity. Then the palate delivers with a rich textural feel, loaded with ripe stone fruit, butter scotch and quince. The finish is tidy and long with a fine lingering acidity.
95 points
2022 Cherubino Ovale Clonal Selection cabernet sauvignon
An interesting diversion from the usual WA cabernet clones in that it is from clones 377 and 191. On the nose there is a captivating mix of black fruits with a minerally ferruginous character merging into other nuances of tobacco leaf, red berry and oyster shell. The palate is very firm with substantial tannins holding it close through to the finish. Let it breathe first.
95 points
2023 On the Fringe chardonnay
The second wine along with the pinot that is part of this duo where the winemaking is hands-off and designed to capture whatever comes from the vineyard and season. So, this is terrific. Has a savoury, slightly funky aroma that provides a captivating beginning. The palate adds a little chalky acidity to provide direction to a sustained finish. Layered and complex and interesting from the get-go.
95 points
2023 Laissez Faire arneis
From the Riversdale Vineyard at Frankland River comes this mighty impressive arneis. The use of partial barrel fermentation has taken a largely fruit driven wine into another level of complexity. You still have that red apple and pear character but there is a slightly toasty infusion that adds tremendously to the final picture. Even the guys in Piedmont, which is home to this variety, might be a little scared.
95 points
2022 Cherubino Ovale Frankland River cabernet franc
A variety that is mostly blended with cabernet sauvignon, yet more are releasing straight varietal versions when things line up in the season. This was one of those times. Perfumed red berry and violet with a floral leafy lift on the nose. The palate is medium bodied and elegantly crafted with the red berry and subtle oak working in harmony. Firmish tannins make a statement. Seamlessly integrated into a smooth velvety palate.
94 points
2022 On the Fringe pinot noir
A wine made with a largely keep-yer-mitts-off approach in the winery. It’s from the excellent Channybearup vineyard in Pemberton and made with minimal intervention. I think Cherubino just wanted to see where things would go. Well, they’ve gone pretty well. Slightly gamey mushroomy aromas with a subtle cherry note. The palate is light yet intense with excellent fruit concentration delivered with elegance. A fine acidity sustains the finish.
94 points
2022 The Yard malbec
The juicy bright red fruits that are malbec burst initially from the glass then take a mighty leap from the glass. This one comes from the Justin Vineyard in Frankland. There seems to be much of the vineyard here with a slightly iron filings edge to the deep fruit flavours. The chalky tannins and understated oak really hum ringing the fruit to life.
94 points
2022 Cherubino Ovale Frankland River petit verdot
No shortage of colour in this petit verdot off the Riversdale Vineyard. Loads of dark fruits evident immediately on the nose, then the palate displays the firm core of tannins you expect with the variety. This warmer year proved ideal for this variety which needs warmer vintages to reach optimum flavour ripeness.
93 points
2022 Cherubino Ovale Omaggio shiraz malbec
A little Rhone and a little Bordeaux get together for this little shindig that results in a smoothly textured and lavish wine. Opulent dark spicy plum and chocolate with ripe blackberry notes throughout. The oak influence is minimal with maturation in a five-year-old foudres. It’s resulted in a wine of tremendous energy and vibrancy evident from the bright colour and medium body.
93 points
2023 Laissez Faire fiano
A variety that continues to increase in popularity and with good reason. It is a thoroughly beautiful crisp and fresh drink. In this case a little barrel fermentation has added to the palate providing texture and richness while still retaining a fresh clean acidity. A little honey and citrus with a slightly nutty character provides the interest.
93 points
2023 Laissez Faire Field Blend
One of the best of these I have tasted. The vintage certainly helped, proving ideal for the gewurztraminer, pinot blanc and pinot grigio used in the blend. Has a spicy aromatic lift with a tangy palate of subtle apricot and orange peel nuances. The fruit vibrant and the time in older oak has simply brought it together.
93 points
2022 Pedestal Margaret River shiraz
A rich and chewy shiraz from what was a good year in Margaret River for this variety. The nose loads up with liqueur black cherry, dark plum and a little earthy complexity. The palate is dense and concentrated with a liberal sprinkling of spices merging with the dark chocolate and mulberry flavours. It remains soft and supple, supported by gentle tannins. A wine to get your teeth into now.
93 points
91 POINTS
2023 Pedestal Margaret River Chardonnay
90 POINTS
2024 Ad Hoc Nitty Gritty Pinot Grigio
2022 Ad Hoc Hen & Chicken Chardonnay
89 POINTS
2024 Folklore Sauvignon Blanc Semillon
2024 Folklore Rose
