The Singapour – November 2023
By Richard Hemming MW
A bumper edition of Richard's monthly tasting compilation.
Much of this collection was tasted on my recent visit to Margaret River, and it represents a grab-bag of both famous names and newcomers, who between them make a selection of classic varieties and alternatives.
2022 On the fringe Chardonnay
First vintage. No new oak. Dijon clones 95, 96, 76. There's so much minerality here! Entirely francophone in style, albeit with the fruit that suggests Australia. (RH) Drink 2024 – 2030
17.5/20
2022 Cherubino Margaret River Chardonnay
Gingin clone. Fleshy, generous and sophisticated in style – gorgeously layered fruit and a static shock of acid on the finish. Leesy, textural. (RH) Drink 2024 – 2034
18/20
2022 Laissez Faire Fiano
Substantial and rich with apricot and peach and a touch of syrupy style but without losing a single drop of freshness. Are there any Fianos better than this? Not many, for sure. (RH) Drink 2023 – 2028
17.5/20
2022 Cherubino Frankland River Riesling
Lime juice, honey, plenty of phenolic grip. Bone dry, high acid, lengthy and classic but with rounded-edge acidity that feels like the vignette in a photo. Substantial and gastronomic (RH)
Drink 2023 - 2030
16.5/20
2020 Cherubino Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon
Beetroot, black cherry, eucalyptus – the epitome of Aussie Cabernet. There's a candied edge to the fruit, but a super-savoury finish. Cherry, dark chocolate length. Smoky finish with tannins that give grip without aggression. (RH) Drink 2022 – 2030
17.5+/20
2019 Cherubino Frankland River Cabernet Sauvignon
Dark cherry, riper and fleshier than their Margaret River Cabernet. More dense and structured, and perhaps more reticent in style. (RH) Drink 2024 – 2029
17+/20
2021 Laissez Faire IV Red Blend
Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Counoise. Bramble, jammy, cocoa, excellent clarity and smokiness. Substantial and grainy, but absolutely balanced and drinkable. Very Rhôney, more South Australian than Western Australian, at least according to the theory books! (RH) Drink 2023 – 2028
17/20
2022 Laissez Faire Mencía
Gorgeous fruit purity, chilli jam, redcurrants. A light oak-spiciness character on the finish. Juicy and fibrous with such charming fruit clarity. Such a good example of how well this variety can travel. (RH) Drink 2023 – 2028
17+/20
